Curating urban cool

Urban youth culture has always had a strong influence on fashion. Evolving with each generation, embracing local and global politics, usually challenging, always exciting, blink and you’ve missed it, writes Tash Morgan-Etty. 

One of the few people who is able to keep her finger firmly on the pulse of Accra’s urban cool is Italo-Ghanaian designer/entrepreneur, Stefania Manfreda. Founder of concept stores Lokko House and Elle Lokko, Stefania has been curating and catalysing local fashion and cultural talent for over 13 years.

Using the two stores and an adjacent lot as an event space, the Lokko House team has regularly provided a platform for Accra’s up and coming young creatives. Innovative events like their Lokko Decks music nights and POP shop & friends thrift shopping experiences have proven hugely popular among Accra’s visitors, Ghanaian diaspora, and returnees alike.

And Stefania’s about to step up the pace.

“We’ve worked with music, upcycling, fashion, arts, exhibitions, talks, workshops,” she says. “And we’ve realised that many artists tend to have their first experiences here with us. We’ve helped them with guidance, direction, and mentoring. So, formalising that aspect of what we do is the natural next step.”

Recognising it as a hub of innovation, the Ghana Enterprise Agency (GEA) and the Mastercard Foundation have partnered with Lokko House to enable women-owned businesses to market their products globally. Through this initiative Stefania and her team will mentor emerging female fashion designers, host and sell their creations, and help them to establish an online retail platform.

Never one for complacency, she plans to take this one step further. “We are setting up a training institute,” she announces excitedly. “It’ll be a hub of talented creatives that any company will be able to collaborate within Ghana instead of importing talent from overseas. I want this space to become a boiler room for local youth.” Watch this space!

In the meantime, what’s hot in Accra in 2021/22? “I wouldn’t say there’s a style that’s particularly Ghanaian or that’s trendy right now. It’s not like Europe where people generally choose to wear a uniform according to the clique they identify with or what’s trending. But casual apparel is becoming mainstream here, and girls are getting a lot more daring. I think that’s part of the whole club scene and promiscuous youth culture globally. Or maybe I’m just getting old,” she laughs.

“On the other hand,” she points out, “a lot of young people are also showing an interest in their ancestry, mystery modern religions, and African spirituality. But unfortunately, that’s got a lot to do with the influx of African Americans to Ghana, their search for their roots, and people wanting to profit off that. I’m also seeing more designers incorporate Kente weaving into their work. Then there’s the influence of gender-blurring on fashion too. So, there’s quite a rich and interesting mishmash of things going on here.”

 Stefania’s favourite shopping destinations are Makola Market for fabrics and Kantamanto for retro thrift buys. For beautifully designed brands she recommends Viva Concept Store, Viva Boutique, Christie Brown, and – of course – Elle Lokko.

The elegant Elle Lokko, and her easy-going brother, Lokko House can both be found on Lokko Road in Osu. Keep an eye on their social media pages for upcoming experiences and events.

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