An African heart

Accra’s fashion designers are taking the best of their traditions and heritage and turning them into cutting-edge fashion. Sarah Jones uncovers some of the most interesting designers in Accra right now, including Larry Jay

Larry Jay

Jostling for prominence against the bullish force of disposable fashion, designers in Accra are spurred on by pride in their African heritage and a longing to offer an ethical alternative to Accra’s aspirational youth. These five designers marry tradition with modernity in joyful new ways.  

Nelly Hagan Deebde is the Founder and Creative Director of the hugely successful brand, Duaba Serwa. Her dresses, which exude drama and confidence, are worn on the red carpet by African movie star Jackie Appiah and Hollywood actress Lupita Nyong’o, among others. 

Beginning her career as a nurse who enjoyed sewing as a release from the stresses of her day, Hagan Deebde’s passion for design took hold. Fuelled by inspiration taken from time spent in Japan, her work typically features strong origami pleats and embraces cutting-edge design. Yet she also remains rooted in her Ghanaian heritage. She celebrates traditional techniques such as batik and tie-dye, collaborating with skilled women weavers in Ghana and Burkina Faso to manufacture unique fabrics. 

Also embracing old and new Ghana is Larry Jafaru Mohammed. He was born and raised in Accra and his heritage runs through his work like coloured thread through kente cloth. Through his Larry Jay collection he draws upon the skills of local artisans and upcycled local products. His unisex collection is a blend of African culture and inspiration from nature with modern, sleek silhouettes. He also celebrates his personal heritage, including family members - using his own parents as models. 

Larry Jay

Chloe Asaam takes the theme of heritage one step further. Her clothing range quite literally references its origin, with a QR code on each item, telling the story of its origin. Taking fabrics from her Ghanaian heritage, Asaam elevates everyday items in beautiful ways, in loose-fitting garments and high-waisted trousers. She is hoping to convince her consumers to buy a capsule wardrobe which can be worn in a wide variety of combinations and so help to combat the environmental impact of fast fashion. Asaam takes as her inspiration the strong female role models in her life, using them as models for her collection.

Hassan Alfaziz Iddrisu is the owner and lead creative designer of Hazza. Iddrisu was born in Kumasi but is now based in Accra where he too is deeply concerned about the size of the landfill in Accra. He reuses fabrics, redying, printing and experimenting with tie-dye.  He finds inspiration from the people around him and in exploring poorer, less desirable areas of Ghana. 

His lines are a celebration of African heritage and patriotic pride, represented in his bright colour palette. Known for his casual suits and distinctive sportswear, his ethical collection appeals to a youth market. 

Atto Tetteh is also a strong advocate of the use of colour and pattern in embodying the Ghanaian identity. His collection is primarily for men, who he found to be underrepresented in Accra’s designers. He creates vibrant, joyful suits which appeal to an African market - as well as any fashion-minded person who likes their daily life suffused with African colour. The famed kente geometric patterns feature in his designs, with all fabrics hand-woven in Ghana. For him, fashion is both a statement of style and also crucial in helping to preserve Ghanaian craftsmanship and livelihoods.