East to Lake Volta
Life on the lake.
The relaxed town of Hohoe constitutes the main transport hub for the area east of Lake Volta. It’s also where the Wli Falls are situated. After the heat of the coast or the dusty aridity of the north, the region’s soft green hills and fertile fields make for a refreshing sight. In Hohoe itself, the Taste Lodge (0935 22023) is the smartest accommodation option.
The smaller villages in the surrounding landscape make for captivating day-trips, and one of the highlights of the region is Wli-Afegame, a peaceful and charming village 17 kilometres (11 miles) east of Hohoe, very close to the Togo border. Its main attraction is, of course, the waterfall – Ghana’s highest. The lower part of the falls can be visited easily by following a smooth, criss-crossing path through the forest, and has developed into a popular spot for both locals and tourists. In contrast, the upper part of the waterfall is more strenuous to reach, but more solitary as a result. The way up is steep and narrow, and the humidity can make the hike exhausting. Fortunately, a rainbow shimmer of flowers and insects, coupled with stupendous views down to the villages and the pool itself, make it a hugely rewarding day out among nature.
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay close by, the Wli Waterfall Lodge (020 511 5388, ghanacamping.com) comes recommended for its views, location and the friendly welcome. The hospitable owners – a German couple – know a lot about the region and offer various guided hiking and cycling tours. It’s also possible to rent mountain bikes for independent cycling trips, in which capacity Mount Afadjato makes a superb destination.
The Ghana Wildlife Society (ghanawildlifesociety.org) runs a small campsite at the base of the mountain and offers guided climbs to the top. Rangers explain the local flora and fauna on the way up. At 2900ft (880m), it’s technically Ghana’s highest mountain, and makes for a pretty good walk.
There are three national parks around Lake Volta and the Volta region. Digya National Park, on the western shores of the lake, compromises 3,478 square kilometres (1,342 square miles) of woodland, as well as parts of the lake. Little-visited, it’s home to colobus monkeys, antelopes, clawless otters, crocodiles and the park’s emblem, the manatee. The park’s name, digya, means black rhinoceros – now extinct here.
