Accra to Cape Coast
Attractive towns, picturesque beaches.
While the 165 kilometres (103 miles) of road linking Accra’s urban sprawl with historic Cape Coast may initially appear to hold little attraction, travellers willing to venture short distances from the main road will find attractive townships, picturesque beaches and a scattering of forts worthy of a day, or in some cases a few days, of exploration. First up, Kokrobite Beach. Just 25 kilometres (15 miles) west of Accra, the palm tree-strewn beach seems light years away from the frantic capital. It’s home to backpacker favourite Big Milly’s Backyard, which, as well as providing accommodation, keeps the party spirit in full flow.
Also at Big Milly’s is Mr Brights Surf Shop. British surf champ Brett Davies (aka Mr Brights) has devoted his life to catching waves. After leaving a top job at the Rip Curl head office several years ago, he decided to take the plunge and head to Ghana to manage a surf shop/school owned by a Ghanaian – and his good friend – Sidiq Banda. Sidiq started the father company Surf Star Ghana to help promote surfing in Ghana, and together with Mr Brights they have since helped local surfers to train, donating equipment and organising contests. In the past they’ve also raised the money to send Ghanaian surfers not only to the Ivory Coast but also to a major international surfing contest in South Africa. Mr Brights himself is a highly trained surf coach and also a beach lifeguard, so students and surfers will be in good hands. He caters to anyone from five years old and upwards, with beginners, advanced surfers and even non-swimmers all welcome. All equipment is provided. The shop also rents surfboards, bodyboards, stand up paddleboards and kayaks, and stocks surf equipment for sale too. For further information and bookings, go via their website mrbrights.com or call on 026 431 6053.
Elsewhere, popular day-trips in the area include guided canoe trips through the Densu River wetlands, as well as rides with local fishermen. Heading further west along the coastal road, you’ll find the turning to neighbouring dwellings Fete and Senya Beraku – set six kilometres apart, and each with their own attractions. For a slice of history and clifftop views, head to Senya Beraku’s 18th century Fort of Good Hope. Both these quiet fishing villages are slices of unadulterated coastal Ghana.
Also along this road is the exclusive White Sands Beach Resort, a members-only property with gorgeous chalets and an excellent beachside restaurant.
The lively fishing harbour of Winneba, with its sizeable beach and European and royal cemeteries, is a worthwhile stop-off too. Elsewhere, turn south at Akamu for another pretty fishing harbour, Apam, where you can spend an extremely basic but undeniably novel night in Dutch-built Fort Lydsaamsheid (also known as Fort Patience) (ghanamuseums.org). A further 30 kilometres (19 miles) towards Cape Coast is Mankessim, which is worth a quick look for its posuban shrine.
At Saltpond there’s an attractive beach and a striking shrine, as well as fine views from Fort Amsterdam, the first British fort to be built on the Gold Coast. It’s located a couple of kilometres from the town. Nearby, the coastal village of Biriwa has a stunning stretch of beach.
