Jamestown

The historic foundations of the city

The oldest – and one of the poorest – areas of Accra is also one of the most exciting. Jamestown is vibrant and noisy, soundtracked by the clatter of pans, the babble of radios and the roar of exhausts. Low corrugated-iron roofs stand over painted shops and busy houses, wandering chickens negotiate open drains and life-endangering potholes, and laundry-cobwebbed courtyards act as pitches for football games.

It wasn’t always like this. Prior to the city becoming the capital of the British Gold Coast in 1877, the Jamestown district was the power hub of a succession of Portuguese governments. Amid today’s ramshackle streets, the colonial handiwork can still be seen. And despite the apparent poverty, the quarter still makes for a safe and friendly place through which to wander during the day. More than anywhere else in Accra, there’s an evident sense of community.

Fort James, built by the British in the 17th century, commands deep views over the Atlantic from a perch above the fishing harbour. It served as a prison until recently and there’s no chance of entering, but it’s still of interest as a peeling, whitewashed memento of days past.

Also of historical note is the nearby colonial-era Jamestown Lighthouse, built in the 1930s. It’s not a tourist attraction in the usual sense – don’t expect any gift shops or ticket offices – but stray within a stone’s throw and you’ll inevitably be accosted by a ‘guide’ offering to take you up it for a few cedis (usually around GH¢15 per person). If you’re willing to part with the cash, there’s a good panoramic view at the top of the (possibly not overly safe) spiral staircase.

Inland from the harbour is another remnant of the British era, the Methodist Church. Construction started in 1922, using imported bricks.

Also of interest is Brazil House, a restored empire-era property that has been transformed into a museum chronicling the history of Ghana’s Afro-Brazilian returnees. Known as the Tabom people (the reply to ‘how are you?’ in Portuguese is ‘ta bom’), they returned to Accra as a 70-strong group on the British government’s SS Salisbury in 1836. Local boxer Azumah Nelson is a descendant of one of the returnees.